Designer Julien Dossena made waves at Paris Fashion Week with Rabanne’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, titled “The Awakening,” inspired by the allure of 1950s girls. The collection offered a vibrant vision mixing bright colours with a beachside spirit, bringing coastal leisure into daily life.
The Contrast Between Optimism and Tension
Dossena built the collection around the concept of contrast between optimism and tension, drawing from “the decade before the founding of Paco Rabanne.” He explained in a press interview: “At first I discovered swimsuits from the ’40s and ’50s — they looked like dresses — and I found that fascinating, this kind of performative clothing for leisure.”
Beach-Inspired Looks
The collection centred on the refined structure of swimwear from that era, alongside the elegance of diving suits. Bikini tops appeared alone or visible beneath ruffled dresses, while front-zip neoprene trousers — some folded at the waist — were reworked into chic silhouettes.
Rabanne’s Metallic Skirt
One of the standout pieces was the so-called “car crash skirt” — a wearable sculpture made of articulated metallic layers that rattled with each step. This exceptional piece, requiring more than 300 hours of craftsmanship, embodied Rabanne’s philosophy of pushing boundaries with metal, volume, and symbolism.
A Sunlit Colour Palette
The palette featured pale blues, soft sun-washed yellow, and ivory. Dossena described fabrics that “sparkle like pool tiles,” while a leather corset revealed his precision — merging sport with sculptural grace.
Anchors of white, black and rich brown grounded the range, while colours expressed the intended tension: whimsical yellow, 1950s-inspired blue and peach, alongside deeper emerald and navy.
Tropical Details and Playful Motifs
Details stood out through layered visuals and striking proportions — like a shirt embroidered with a sunset framed by palm trees, or an A-line mini dress with a cut-out window. Textural elements appeared in floral appliqués echoing swim caps, and in the unexpected presence of lived-in leather jackets.
Inventive Accessories and Lush Jewelry
Accessories included high heels wrapped in metallic leaves peeling from the ankle, two-tone slides enveloping the foot, and surf boots reimagined for daily wear. Jewelry was playful and appetising: silver-hardened floral garlands, glossy fruits dripping with juice, and ice-cube pendants dangling on chains.
Luxury Car-Inspired Bags
The collection also debuted new bags featuring graduated discs with glossy finishes reminiscent of automotive paint. This detail reflected Dossena’s contemporary vision, merging traditional luxury with modern aesthetics inspired by the world of cars.
