The prestigious Parisian luxury fashion house owned by Swiss conglomerate Richemont, announced on Friday, January 29, 2026, the departure of its creative director Pieter Mulier, marking the end of an exceptional five-year chapter that witnessed remarkable creative and commercial revival of the storied brand on the global fashion stage.
Myriam Serrano, chief executive officer of Alaïa, confirmed in an official statement that Mulier will present his final collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2026. “We sincerely thank Pieter for his vision and commitment, writing an important chapter in the ongoing evolution of the maison,” Serrano said in the statement.
She continued: “Over the past five years, Pieter and the exceptional team he led have shaped Alaïa’s creative renewal, honoring its heritage and strengthening the maison’s relevance, confidence, and global recognition”.
From Architecture to Fashion’s Summit
The official statement clarified that the in-house atelier will ensure continuity during the interim period until a new creative leadership is confirmed, without disclosing further details regarding Mulier’s successor or specific reasons for the departure.
Pieter Mulier, the 47-year-old Belgian designer, studied architecture at the Institut Saint-Luc in Brussels until 2001, before launching his career in fashion. Mulier built his reputation as a trusted collaborator of renowned designer Raf Simons, working alongside him across two decades in various capacities that shaped his creative vision.
His professional journey began in 2001 with an internship at Raf Simons menswear, followed by a return in 2002 as senior designer leading the creative team. Mulier accompanied Simons to Jil Sander in 2005 where he served as accessories design director, then moved with him to Dior in 2012 as design director overseeing couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories.
In 2016, Mulier assumed the position of global creative director at Calvin Klein alongside Simons, a role he held until 2019 when both departed the label together. Mulier was appointed creative director of Alaïa in February 2021, becoming the first external designer to lead the house since the passing of founder Azzedine Alaïa in 2017.
Reviving Alaïa’s legacy in contemporary language
Mulier assumed leadership of Alaïa at a critical juncture in its history. Following the death of Tunisian-French designer Azzedine Alaïa on November 18, 2017, at age 82, the house relied on its in-house team to design collections drawn from the archive.
Azzedine Alaïa established his first workshop in 1964, formally launching Maison Alaïa under this name in 1983. Swiss conglomerate Richemont acquired a significant stake in the house in 2007, and in the decade following the acquisition, the business grew by approximately 400 percent.
Mulier presented his inaugural collection for Alaïa in July 2021 for the Spring-Summer 2022 season, maintaining the founder’s philosophy centered on the female form and exceptional craftsmanship, yet expressed in contemporary language. Mulier resisted chasing fast-fashion trends, preferring to focus on creating desire rather than merely producing products.
In an autumn 2025 interview with Harper’s Bazaar, Mulier stated: “Of course, the way a product is made still matters, but it isn’t the most important thing. Creativity is the new luxury; I’m convinced of that”.
Commercial triumphs and cultural resonance
Mulier achieved remarkable commercial success through pieces that became icons in the fashion world. Most notably, the mesh ballet flats became a cultural phenomenon with a devoted following, the “Le Teckel” bag—an elongated horizontal shoulder design—and “Barrel jeans” featuring distinctive rounded legs.
A report from global shopping platform Lyst revealed that online searches for Alaïa surged by 51 percent, with the house reaching fifth place in the “Hottest Brands” ranking during the third quarter of 2024. Additionally, Richemont noted in its first-half 2024 financial report that Alaïa was among the top-performing labels within its portfolio.
Mulier’s designs attracted global celebrities organically, without reliance on paid partnerships, as singer Rihanna, actress Zendaya, Miley Cyrus, and Vanessa Kirby wore his creations at high-profile events. In July 2025, Rihanna appeared in a custom Alaïa skirt that highlighted her pregnancy, becoming the subject of widespread fashion discourse.
Speculation points to Versace appointment
Mulier’s departure from Alaïa arrives months after the sudden exit of Dario Vitale from the position of creative director at Italian luxury house Versace, triggering waves of speculation within fashion industry circles about Mulier’s next move.
Versace announced on December 4, 2025, the departure of Dario Vitale from his post after less than nine months in the role, merely two days after Italian conglomerate Prada Group completed its acquisition of Versace from Capri Holdings for €1.25 billion (approximately $1.37 billion).
Vitale presented just one collection for Versace in September 2025, which received critical acclaim, before an official statement announced that both parties “mutually agreed to part ways effective December 12, 2025”. The statement indicated that a new creative director “will be announced in due course”.
Since Vitale’s departure announcement, fashion media has intensified speculation about Pieter Mulier’s potential move to Versace. Women’s Wear Daily, a leading fashion trade publication, reported sources within the industry suggesting an official announcement from Prada Group “is expected in the coming days”.
Specialized fashion publications including The Industry Fashion and NSS Magazine suggested Mulier is considered the prime candidate to lead Versace under Prada Group ownership, citing his creative rapport with Raf Simons, who currently works as creative partner with Miuccia Prada. However, as of February 2, 2026, no official statement from Prada Group, Versace, or Alaïa has confirmed this appointment.
Alaïa’s future post-Mulier
Alaïa has disclosed no details regarding Mulier’s successor, stating only that the in-house team will oversee creative operations during the transition period. Media speculation has circulated regarding the possibility of Olivier Rousteing, the former creative director of Balmain who exited that house in November 2025 after 14 years, potentially joining Alaïa, though these reports remain unconfirmed officially.
Mulier leaves behind a strong creative and commercial legacy at Alaïa, a house known since its 1964 founding for its commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and focus on femininity and timeless beauty. His successor will inherit the responsibility of continuing this legacy in an era of accelerating fashion cycles and intensifying commercial challenges for luxury brands.
