On October 1, 2025, Olivier Rousteing returned to the ballroom of the InterContinental Paris Le Grand — the same venue where his journey with Balmain began. It was here that Rousteing presented his first collection as Balmain’s creative director on September 28, 2011, at just 26 years old. His decision to return to the same space was deliberate. “This season everyone is talking about a new era and new beginnings,” he said.
From Rigidity to Fluidity
Comparing the Spring/Summer 2026 lineup to his 2011 debut shows just how far Rousteing’s creative vision has evolved. This time, dresses, shoes and handbags were embroidered with playful clusters of ethically sourced seashells or wooden beads. Garments and bags were adorned with baroque-inspired bohemian fringes, while ’80s-style leather jackets with slouched shoulders gave the collection a retro edge.
Deconstructing the Traditional Balmain Army
Rousteing embraced silk and satin to create fluid, harmonious pieces with a deliberate looseness. Couture codes were present, but reinterpreted with simplicity — seen in a twisted-collar jacket in cashmere and cotton, paired with a shell-embellished skirt. A sculpted rose crystal bustier displayed Balmain’s signature technical mastery, balancing opulence with nature.
Balmain’s 80-Year Legacy
The collection coincided with Balmain’s 80th anniversary — the house was founded in September 1945. Rousteing, who became creative director at 25, is now the third-longest-serving non-founding creative director in luxury fashion. The milestone underscores his exceptional ability to lead a historic house while keeping it relevant.
Reflecting on receiving the Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion in September 2025, Rousteing said: “I never believed this was an award I could win. To be honest, when I dreamed of fashion, I had no example of a Black designer at a French luxury house.” His words highlighted the historic importance of his role and the challenges he has faced.
