Paris witnessed a defining moment in global fashion on Wednesday, October 1, 2025, when British designer Jonathan Anderson presented his first womenswear collection as creative director of Dior. Staged in the Tuileries Garden, the show was the most anticipated event of Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2026.
The audience featured a star-studded lineup of global celebrities and cultural figures, including actors Johnny Depp, Jennifer Lawrence, Anya Taylor-Joy and Jenna Ortega, along with K-pop idols Jimin and Jisoo, and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron. Spanish singer Rosalía and Oscar-winning actress Mikey Madison were also in attendance.
Reinterpreting Dior’s Codes with a Modern Vision
The show opened with a short film by documentary filmmaker Adam Curtis, projected on a giant inverted pyramid suspended from the ceiling. Mixing archival Dior footage with horror film clips, the film carried a message about the “weight of heritage” and the need to break free in order to create something new.
Anderson presented 74 looks reflecting his philosophy of “tension between fantasy and reality.” He reimagined Dior’s classic codes, most notably the iconic Bar jacket from the 1947 New Look collection, with fresh, inventive updates. Jackets appeared in shrunken proportions with altered cuts, while short skirts took on puffed, layered forms resembling pastry sheets.
Drama and Theatricality in the Designs
The collection carried strong dramatic elements, with headpieces inspired by cornet veils and lace face coverings drawn from Dior’s archives. Bows were a recurring motif, adorning dresses, blouses and even shoes, adding a touch of femininity and romance.
Anderson employed a repeated “double balloon” technique beneath skirts, creating unusual Versailles-like silhouettes that critics described as a “sinister riff on 18th-century panniers.” This theatrical device underscored Anderson’s vision of merging history with the present in bold, dramatic ways.
